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| Author: | | Created: 12.01.2006 - Updated: 01.11.2007 | Stuff needed : 4-pistons and all the spare parts needed
Tools needed : Common tool set
Possible problems : Loosening the bleeder valve screws Removing the pistons from the caliper Splitting the caliper
Difficulty : medium, one day
Story :
You can start refurbishing your 4-piston calipers under one condition. You need to have some. You can get them from a car yard, or have them already. The caliper´s body is very simular to calipers from Wartburg, they are even so simular, that they can also be used.
It is not as important in what condition the calipers are, as it is important to be able to loosen the bleeder valves. If you are taking the calipers off the car, it is a good idea to take out the brake pads and try to remove as many pistons as possible.
First you need to undress the caliper - remove the cotter pins and the brake pads cover, take out the brake pads, loosen the supply screws and hoses. You will end up with a bare caliper and lots of work to do.
Now you need to persuade the bleeder valves to evacuate the caliper in one piece. That is not very easy, and sometimes it could even be impossible - especially if the caliper has never been bled. The same rule always counts - tap on it, tap on it some more and pray. And if it happens, that you rip the head off the screew, don´t loose yours. If you have clever hands and enough patience, you can get it out with a drill.
The next problem could be splitting the caliper. Maybe the imbus screws will go out easy, but maybe you will not be able to get them out, no matter how much you try. Rather than spending whole day trying, it is better to drill them off.
If you have managed to split the caliper, you can start ripping out the old rubber washers around the pistons. Now you have two caliper halves with pistons. You can take the pistons out now, or wait after you do the final coating. It is not difficult to take out the pistons on the side with inflow hoses; you just need to shake them out through the screw holes. Pistons on the other side aren´t that easy. If they are sticking out enough, you can grab them with a vice and by turning the caliper´s body, you can loosen them. If they are not sticking out enough, you need to force them out first with a screwdriver.
Before you start coating, put the caliper back together, including all the hoses.
You can send the caliper and than use a zinc powder paint (komaxit). It is the easiest and it is cheap. For sending and spray painting in year 2005 I paid 40 Czk per piece.
After you finish painting take the caliper apart again and take out all the parts.
Now we are going to do bit of clean work for a change. To put a couple of calipers back together you will need:
4pcs 133393803 Square o-ring Škoda
130 8ks 114493800 Kroužek těs.třmenu Š130 8ks 114493801 Manžeta brz. třmenu Š130 8pcs 114430270 Disk brake piston 4pcs 114439460 Caliper cotter pin 6pcs 193595541 Bleeder valve 6pcs 193595560 Dust cap 8ks 933821014 kroužek průtok šroubu
a příslušné pevnostní imbusové šrouby.
Bigger problem could be to get these parts. The most expensive part is the piston, which can cost something between 80-110 Czk (2005) and you need to buy eight of them.
And now we can start assembling....
Put the rubber seal into the caliper´s body and put the sealing cup onto the piston. Rub the brake fluid onto the caliper´s body and the piston. Squeeze a bit of brake lubricant into the gaiter and push the whole thing in. It goes bit harder, but that's how it should be.
Hotové poloviny brzdičů sešroubujeme šrouby (nezapomeňte na těsnící kroužky), našroubujeme odzvdušňovací šrouby, nasadíme čepičky a...
... this is the end of our refurbishment :)
I hope that you like your new calipers and that they will serve you long and well.
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| Comments
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| Pokud jsou odvzdušňováky dotažené naplno a přesto to kolem nich prosakuje, pak je špatná dosedací plocha. Může tam být nějaký bordel nebo může být poškozená mechanicky, například odvrtáváním zalomeného odvzdušňováku. Jedna nebo dvě dirky nemá význam, je to otázka výrobce. Podobně se dělají i průtokové šrouby na připojení hadic. S dvěma nebo jednou dírou. Záleží kdo to vyrobil, jiný zásadní vliv to nemá.
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| odvzdušňováky nejdou dotáhnou a pritom to kolem nich prosakuje?? proč je na některých odvzdušňovákách jedna dirka a na jiných 2 co to má za význam??
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| Ahoj Davesi, mam 4p brzdice s provrtanyma komorama - tedy bez nutnost propojek do erka, co si myslis o teto uprave? Klady, zapory atd.....
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| Myslíš ukroutí? tak provrtat a projet znova závit, takhle sem to dělaj, kdysi dávno a těsnil dobře.
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| Zdarec. A máte někdo zkušenosti když se odvzdušňovací šroub zalomí?
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| Odvzdušňováky by měli mít v každé lepší prodejně autodílů. Na čtyřpístech jsou dva druhy. Krátké a dlouhé.
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| Kde se seženou odvzdušňováky?Díky za radu. M.
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| Osobně mám s komaxitem na brzdičích špatné zkušenosti. Práškové barvy se vypalují při teplotě někde mezi 100 a 200 stupňů Celsia. Mám zkušenost, že když někde hodně tahám, ohřeju brzdy na vyšší teplotu, takže barva změkne a zaseká se do ní brzdný prach. V určitých exponovaných místech mi barva dokonce ohořela. Proto bych se u brzdičů na závodní auto přikláněl ke stříknutí akrylátem, který by mohl, dle mého názoru, mít větší výdrž. H.
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| duralové písty můžete použít,ale musí mít povrchovou ůpravu,tvrdý elox
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| Tak asi dalo, ale bylo by to zbytečně komplikovanější. K pístům by byl špatný přístup.
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| na co tie brzdice rozpolovata potom ich zase davat do kopy?neda sa to zrepasovat bez toho delenia?
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| Prosím Tě jaký konzervační tuk jsi použil?
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| k vyndavani pistku- povolte trochu jeden odvzdunovak a pichnite na nej kompresor!, ale bacha trochu to strili tak je chytejte do hardu
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| Těžko říct, pravděpodobně budou mít jinou tepelnou roztažnost. Pokud je někdo vyrábí, pak to asi funguje.
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| Materiál ze serveru daves.cz nesmí být publikován bez souhlasu autora. David Spilka (Daves), tel.: 775 328 374, email: send email, ICQ: 109318615
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